Edward Smith, Textile Engineering and Materials (TEAM) Research Group, 麻豆影院 (麻豆影院), Leicester, UK

Dr Edward Smith

Job: Research Fellow

Faculty: Arts, Design and Humanities

School/department: School of Design

Research group(s): Textile Engineering and Materials (TEAM) Research Group

Address: Vijay Patel Design Wing VP5.22, 麻豆影院, Leicester, LE1 9BH

T: +44 (0) 116 207 8372

E: esmith@dmu.ac.uk

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Personal profile

Textile Chemistry
Textile Biotechnology
Natural fibres (bast fibres and wool)
Dyeing and finishing
Antimicrobial textile testing

Research group affiliations

Textile Engineering and Materials (TEAM) Research Group

Publications and outputs

dc.title: Peroxidase-catalysed coloration for fabric design with colour patterns dc.contributor.author: Netithammakorn, Nalinee; Smith, Edward; Lerpiniere, Claire; Shen, Jinsong dc.description.abstract: Biotechnology using enzymes has been explored in textile wet processing for potential of reducing chemical, energy and water consumption, due to being highly specific biocatalysts that can operate under mild temperature and neutral pH conditions. The current research study contributes to an understanding of the use of the enzyme peroxidase for textile coloration of wool fabrics as an alternative coloration method to using conventional dyestuff. Peroxidases, belonging to the enzyme group of oxidoreductases, can catalyse oxidation of a wide range of colourless simple aromatic compounds as precursors to form polymeric colourants. This enzymatic coloration can be successfully applied to in-situ dyeing of wool fabrics at a low temperature through peroxidase catalysis of various precursors to achieve a diverse colour palette. It was found that peroxidase can be active over a broad range of pH values to catalyse the synthesis of colourants, resulting in successful coloration of wool fabrics with various colour shades. Peroxidase catalysed coloration of wool fabrics has the potential not only as an alternative coloration process, but also by saving energy and preventing wool fibre damage. To explore the potential of enzymatic coloration for fabric design, colour patterns on fabrics were created using techniques including tie-dyeing and embroidery. Jacquard woven fabrics with different fibre yarns can also show unique colour patterns from subsequent enzymatic dyeing.
dc.title: Enzyme-based textile coloration dc.contributor.author: Prajapati, Chetna; Netithammakorn, Nalinee; Smith, Edward; Shen, Jinsong dc.description.abstract: Textile coloration is typically characterised as a resource intensive production process that requires the use of large amounts of water, high concentrations of processing chemicals, high temperatures and long processing times, commonly resulting in high energy consumption and effluent waste. Consequently, this has led to rethinking approaches to textile coloration. The research presented gives an overview of current studies that investigated the use of two specific oxidoreductase enzymes, laccase (EC 1.10.3.2) and peroxidase (EC1.11.1.7) to develop a one-step coloration process. Both enzymes are capable of polymerising simple aromatic compounds to form colorants with the potential for textile coloration through the formation of conjugated chromophores via their distinctive catalytic oxidation and coupling/polymerization mechanism. A diverse gamut of hues were achieved on a range of different fibre types (flax, wool and nylon) through enzymatic catalysis of various aromatic compounds as laccase or peroxidase substrates or precursors and alteration of processing parameters such as buffer systems, pH values and reaction times. Enzymatically dyed fabrics were tested against commercial standards, resulting in reasonably good colour fastness to wash. The research demonstrates the potential offered by laccase and peroxidase as transformative tools to replace conventional industrial coloration and surface pattern design processes with biological systems, which offer important advantages of simpler processing using milder conditions that eliminate additional chemical use and reduce energy consumption. The adoption of enzyme-based biotechnologies could help the textile coloration industry transition towards a sustainable future.
dc.title: New Approaches for Textile Colouration and Surface Pattern Using Enzyme-based Biotechnology dc.contributor.author: Prajapati, Chetna; Smith, Edward; Kane, Faith; Shen, Jinsong dc.description.abstract: The research presented in this paper gives an overview of a study which was undertaken to investigate the potential offered by the enzyme laccase (EC.1.10.3.2) as a creative design tool for innovative coloration and decorative surface pattern of textiles with a focus on providing sustainable alternatives to conventional processes used in industry. Research was conducted in two parts. The control (scientific) phase explored laccases potential for transforming a range of colourless aromatic compounds into coloured polymeric products via its reaction mechanism, and its ability to facilitate the coloration of most commonly used textile fibre types. Reaction processing parameters such as temperature, pH values, aromatic compound concentrations, and reaction times were investigated to achieve a diverse colour palette, ranging from light - medium to dark shades of blue, green, pink, purple and yellow hues. Wool and nylon fibre types were found to be most suitable for laccase-catalysed coloration. The creative phase investigated the design potential offered by the enzymatic coloration process developed; different and contrasting substantivity properties offered by various fibre types were exploited to produce shadow, reserve, and contrasting coloured effects on specially woven jacquard fabrics. The research demonstrates the potential offered by laccase as a transformative tool to replace conventional industrial coloration and surface pattern design processes with biological systems, which offer important advantages of simpler processing using milder conditions that eliminate additional chemical use and reduce energy consumption. The adoption of enzyme-based biotechnologies could help the textile industry transition towards a sustainable future. dc.description: The file attached to this record is the author's final peer reviewed version. The Publisher's final version can be found by following the DOI link.
dc.title: Chemical recycling of hemp waste textiles via the ionic liquid based dry-jet-wet spinning technology dc.contributor.author: Rissanen, Marja; Schlapp-Hackl, Inge; Sawada, Daisuke; Raiskio, Susanna; Ojha, Krishna; Smith, Edward; Sixta, Herbert dc.description.abstract: The chemical recycling of hemp fabric into high-tenacity man-made cellulose fibres was demonstrated. The fabric was laundered 25 and 50 times to mimic the wear cycles of post-consumer textile waste. Despite the launderings, the molar mass of the material was still too high for recycling via dry-jet-wet spinning. Thus, the fabrics were treated with an aqueous sulfuric acid solution to adjust the intrinsic viscosity to the targeted level of 400鈥�500 ml/g. The acid hydrolysed sample was dissolved in 1,5-diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-enium acetate and man-made cellulose fibres were regenerated by dry-jet-wet spinning. The properties of hemp and regenerated fibres were determined by tensile testing, birefringence measurements, and X-ray diffraction. Regenerated fibres were spun into yarn and knitted into a fabric. The tensile properties of the yarn and the abrasion and pilling resistance of the fabric were determined. Regenerated fibres showed a higher modulus of toughness (55.9 MPa) compared with hemp fibres (28.7 MPa). The fineness and staple length uniformity of regenerated fibres resulted in a high yarn structure evenness, a yarn tenacity of 28.1 cN/tex, and an elongation at break of 7.5%. Due to the even fabric structure, the fabric from regenerated fibres showed higher abrasion resistance than the hemp fabric. dc.description: open access article
dc.title: The Evaluation of Orthotics in Reducing Hallux Valgus Angle in Patients with Hallux Valgus over a Twelve-Month Treatment dc.contributor.author: Li, Guoli; Shen, Jinsong; Smith, Edward; Patel, Chetna dc.description.abstract: Background: Hallux valgus (HV) is one of the most common forefoot deformities among females, and its prevalence increases with age. This study aims to evaluate the effectiveness of three different types of orthotics on the reduction in hallux valgus angle (HVA) for patients with mild and moderate hallux valgus deformities. Methods: Twenty-six patients (42 feet) with mild or moderate HV participated in the treatment with three types of orthotics in the current study. Patients were divided into three groups depending on their HV severities and the consideration of different function of the orthotics. Orthotic Type 1 is a biomechanical style orthotic applied to moderated HV in Group 1. Orthotic Type 2 is a wrap style orthotic used on mild and moderate HV with two sub-groups: mild HV in Group 2A and moderate HV in Group 2B. Orthotic Type 3 is a gel style orthotic for mild HV. Patients were required to wear the orthotics for between 6 and 8 h per night over a period of 12 months. The HVA was measured every 3 weeks using a newly designed Measuring Block. A paired t-test was used to compare the differences between initial and final HVA at different stages of HVA treatment with orthotics. Results: After the 12-month treatment, for moderate HV patients treated with the Orthotic Type 1, their HVA reduced by 5.05 degree (95% CI 1.37, 8.73), (p < 0.05). For moderate HV patients treated with the Orthotic Type 2, their HVA reduced by 1.2 degree (95% CI -0.71, 3.11) (p > 0.05). For mild HV patients treated with the Orthotic Type 2, their HVA reduced by 2.44 degree (95% CI 1.39, 3.49) (p < 0.05). For mild HV patients treated with the Orthotic Type 3, their HVA reduced by 3.08 degree (95% CI -0.68, 6.83) (p > 0.05). Conclusions: Orthotic Type 1 showed a consistent significance in reduction in the HVA during the 12-month treatment, so it could be recommended for treating moderate HV. Orthotic Type 2 reduced the HVA, but it did not show a consistent significance in reduction in the HVA for mild and moderate HV. Orthotic Type 3 reduced the HVA, but it showed a volatile trend during 12 months without significant differences. dc.description: open access article
dc.title: Development of a Manual Measurement Device for Measuring Hallux Valgus Angle in Patients with Hallux Valgus dc.contributor.author: Li, Guoli; Shen, Jinsong; Smith, Edward; Patel, Chetna dc.description.abstract: Background: Hallux valgus (HV) is one of the most common forefoot deformities, and its prevalence increases with age. HV has been associated with poor foot function, difficulty in fitting footwear and poor health-related quality of life. The aims of this study were to design and develop an easy-to-use measurement device for measuring hallux valgus angle (HVA) in patients with HV and to assess the measurement reliability of the newly designed measurement device. Methods: A manual measurement device for measuring HVA was designed and developed to test on patients with HV. Two measuring methods, i.e., test鈥搑etest and intra-observer measurements, were used to evaluate the repeatability and reliability of the newly designed measurement device. In the test鈥搑etest measurements, a total of 42 feet from 26 patients with HV were repeatedly measured by the same researcher using the manual measurement device every 3 weeks over a period of 12 months. The measurement reliability of the newly designed measurement device was analysed based on the collected HVA data. In the intra-observer measurements, a total of 22 feet from the same group of HV patients were measured by the same researcher using the manual measurement device and by a consultant using X-ray measurement for comparison. The intraclass correlation coefficient (ICC) was used to determine the correlation of measurements between the manual measurement device and X-ray measurement. Results: The mean of the difference between the two repeat measurements of HVA using the newly designed manual device was 0.62掳, and the average of ICC was 0.995, which indicates excellent reliability. The ICC between X-ray and the average of twice-repeated manual measurements was 0.868, with 95% CI (0.649, 0.947) (p = 0.000). When the relationship in HVA between X-ray measurement and manual measurement using the new device was regressed as a linear relationship, the regression equation was y = 1.13x - 4.76 (R2 = 0.70). Conclusions: The newly designed measurement device is easy to use, with low-cost and excellent reliability for HVA measurement, with the potential for use in clinical practice. dc.description: open access article
dc.title: Peroxidase-catalysed coloration of wool fabrics dc.contributor.author: Netithammakorn, Nalinee; Smith, Edward; Lerpiniere, Claire; Shen, Jinsong dc.description.abstract: An enzyme-based textile coloration process using peroxidase (EC1.11.1.7) was investigated for its potential as an alternative to conventional textile dyeing processes, with the benefits of being low in energy use and non-damaging to fibres. The current study presents a process for the coloration of wool fabric using peroxidase oxidation of a range of different aromatic compounds in the presence of hydrogen peroxide. The results revealed that wool can be successfully dyed by peroxidase-catalysed coloration at temperatures as low as 30掳C. By controlling the pH values and buffer systems during processing, a diverse colour palette was produced, depending on the small molecular aromatic compound used as the precursor. Colour fastness testing found that fastness to washing, rubbing and light properties achieved good to excellent ratings, with further improvement to wash fastness provided by a post-soaping wash. No fibre damage occurred due to peroxidase-catalysed coloration. This enzyme coloration process is a promising alternative to conventional wool dyeing processes with the advantage of effective dyeing at low temperatures, therefore having the potential of reducing energy consumption and preventing fibre damage. dc.description: The file attached to this record is the author's final peer reviewed version. The Publisher's final version can be found by following the DOI link.
dc.title: Innovative Technologies for Sustainable Textile Coloration, Patterning, and Surface Effects dc.contributor.author: Kane, Faith; Shen, Jinsong; Morgan, Laura; Prajapati, Chetna; Tyrer, John; Smith, Edward dc.description.abstract: The environmental impact of textile dyeing and finishing is of paramount concern in the textile industry. Enzyme and laser processing technologies present attractive alternatives to conventional textile coloration and surface patterning methods. Both technologies have the capability to reduce the impact of manufacturing on the environment by reducing the consumption of chemicals, water and energy, and the subsequent generation of waste. Two emerging textile processing technologies, laser processing and enzyme biotechnology, were investigated as a means of applying surface design and color to materials with a focus on improving the efficiency and sustainability of existing textile design and finishing methods. Through industrial stakeholder engagement and interdisciplinary research involving textile design, fiber and dye chemistry, biotechnology and optical engineering, this design-led project brought together design practice and science with a commercial focus. Each technology was used to modify targeted material properties, finding and exploiting opportunities for the design and finishing of textiles. The work resulted in a catalog of new coloration and design techniques for both technologies making it possible to achieve: selective surface pattern by differential dyeing, combined three-dimensional and color finishing and novel coloration of textile materials. The chapter provides a literature review mapping the use of enzyme biotechnology and laser processing technology within textile design and manufacturing to date, identifying current and future opportunities to reduce environmental impacts through their application. The methodological approach, which was interdisciplinary and design-led, will be introduced and the specific design and scientific methods applied will be detailed. Each of the techniques developed will be discussed and examples of the design effects achieved will be presented. And, an indication of the reductions in chemical effluent, efficiencies in resource use, and design-flexibility in comparison with traditional textile coloration and surface patterning techniques will be given.
dc.title: Testing of natural textile fibres dc.contributor.author: Harwood, R. J.; Smith, Edward
dc.title: Enzyme Catalysed Coloration and Surface Patterning dc.contributor.author: Prajapati, Chetna; Smith, Edward; Kane, Faith; Shen, Jinsong dc.description.abstract: COLORATION IS AN important process in textile finishing, which is commonly used to enhance the appearance and attractiveness of a cloth. Conventional textile coloration methods and techniques employed to create surface patterning through dyeing and printing systems are known to have a negative impact on the environment due to their resource intensive production processes. 1, 2 The adoption of an alternative approach using enzymes could potentially offer processes with improved environmental sustainable qualities by eliminating the inherent drawbacks associated with chemical processes. 3 Enzymes are highly specific biocatalysts, that can operate under mild processing conditions, therefore, reducing not only the consumption of chemicals, energy and water, but also the subsequent generation of effluent waste. Furthermore, enzymes are biodegradable and offer the possibility of recycling. The application of enzymes for textile wet processing have been examined widely. Desizing, bio-scouring, bio-polishing and bleach clean-up using enzymes have become well established industrially. However, only limited work has been carried out on the application of enzymes for textile surface design. Enzymes, protease and laccase, were used in this study as innovative biotechnology-based textile design tools for textile coloration and surface patterning.

Key research outputs

Enzymatic treatment of wool pre-treated with cetyltrimethylammonium bromide to achieve machine washability
Smith E, Shen J. (2012) Enzymatic treatment of wool pre-treated with cetyltrimethylammonium bromide to achieve machine washability. Biocatalysis and Biotransformation, 30 (1), pp. 38-47

Surface modification of wool with protease extracted polypeptides
Smith E, Shen J. (2011) Surface modification of wool with protease extracted polypeptides. Journal of Biotechnology 156, pp. 134-140

The removal of lipid from the surface of wool to promote the subsequent enzymatic process with modified protease for wool shrink resistance
Smith E, Farrand B, Shen J. (2010) The removal of lipid from the surface of wool to promote the subsequent enzymatic process with modified protease for wool shrink resistance. Biocatalysis and Biotransformation 28, pp. 329-338

Covalent bonding of protease to different sized enteric polymers and their potential use in wool processing
Smith E, Schroeder M, Guebitz G, Shen J. (2010) Covalent bonding of protease to different sized enteric polymers and their potential use in wool processing. Enzyme and Microbial Technology 47, pp. 105-111

Comparison of antimicrobial textile treatments
Smith E, Williams JT, Walsh SE, Painter P. (2010), Comparison of antimicrobial textile treatments, In: Medical and Healthcare Textiles: Proceedings of the Fourth International Conference on Healthcare and Medical Textiles. editors. Kennedy JF, Anand SC, Miraftab M, Rajendran S. Woodhead Textile Series No. 75. ISBN 1845692241

Research interests/expertise

Recent research has been in areas including chemical modification of enzymes to improve the performance of wool fibre/ fabric; chemical processing of bast fibre (flax and hemp); functional finishing of fabric using sol-gel and the efficacy of antimicrobial textile testing methodology.

Areas of teaching

Textile materials and technology including coloration, fibres and yarns

Qualifications

PhD in Colour and Polymer Chemistry (University of Leeds)
MSc in Conservation Science ( 麻豆影院, Leicester)
BSc (Hons) in Chemistry (University of East Anglia, Norwich)

Courses taught

Currently teach in the following modules:

FBUY 1001: Textile Materials: Coloration and Fibres & Yarns

TXDN 1004: Textile Contexts: Coloration and Fibre Identification

MDTI 5001: Design Innovation and Sustainability

MDTI 5002: Key Textile Technologies

MDTI 5003: Performance and Analysis

Membership of professional associations and societies

Royal Society of Chemistry – Associate Member (AMRSC)

Conference attendance

Presenter (Oral):

Smith E, Shen J. Surface treatment of wool to achieve hydrophilic fibre and the effect on subsequent dyeing and protease treatment, International Conference on Eco-Dyeing/ Finishing and Green Chemistry, 8th -12th June, 2011, Hangzhou, China.

Smith E, Shen J. Treatment of wool with enzyme extracted wool polypeptide to achieve shrink resistance, 7th International Conference on Polymer and Textile Biotechnology, 2nd – 4th March, 2011, Milan, Italy.

Smith E, Williams JT, Walsh SE, Painter, P. Comparison of antimicrobial textile treatments, 4th International Conference and Exhibition on Healthcare and Medical Textiles (MEDTEX’07),16th – 18th July 2007, Bolton, UK.

Smith, E., Comparison of antimicrobial textile test methods, International Biodeterioration Research Group (IBRG) textiles section meeting, 27th October 2006, Copenhagen, Denmark.

Poster presentations:

Smith E, Zhang Q, Farrand B, Kokol V, Shen J. The development of a bio-scouring process for raw wool using protease, International Conference on Eco-Dyeing/ Finishing and Green Chemistry, June 8-12, 2011, Hangzhou, China.

Contributor:

Shen J, Smith E, Chizyuka M, Walsh S, Martinková L. Sol gel hybrid polymer coating of cotton fabrics, International Conference on Eco-Dyeing/ Finishing and Green Chemistry, 8th – 12th June 2011, Hangzhou, China.

Shen J, Smith E, Dogra N. Development of hydrophobic and antibacterial cotton fabric by sol-gel based surface coating, 7th International Conference on Polymer and Textile Biotechnology, 2nd - 4th March 2011, Milan, Italy.

Shen J, Smith E, Farrand B, Zhang Q. Development of functional surface coatings of wool fibre using sol gel or extracted protein resin, Cost Action 868 workshop on Biotechnical Functionalisation of Renewable Polymer Materials, 18th – 19th September 2008, Varna, Bulgaria.

Session Chair:

I chaired an Oral Presentation Session, Session A-4 on Functional Textiles (10th June 2011) at the International Conference on Eco-Dyeing/ Finishing and Green Chemistry, June 8-12, 2011, Hangzhou, China.

Consultancy work

Consultancies undertaken:

Natural fibre (bast) testing and analysis for two UK based companies
Bast fibre processing research, development and analysis for a North American based company (see external funding)

Current research students

Nalinee Netithammakorn
Guoli Li
Chetna Prajapati (completed PhD April 2017)
Mutinta Chizyuka (completed PhD January 2016)

Externally funded research grants information

March 2012 – July 2015: Bast Fibre Processing Optimisation (Project Tiger), commercially funded

June 2011 – February 2012: Flax Processing Optimisation (CHEMEXBAST II), commercially funded

September 2010 – October 2010: CHEMEXBAST: the optimisation of chemical extraction processing of bast fibres, commercially funded

February 2010 – August 2010: Optimisation of Enzyme Processing of Wool – Follow up (HIRF 447F), Innovation Fellowship funded by EMDA & ERDF

March 2009 – August 2009: Optimisation of Enzyme Processing of Wool (HIRF 385), Innovation Fellowship funded by EMDA

Professional esteem indicators

I have refereed research papers for the following journals since January 2008:

Textile Research Journal
Coloration Technology
Amino Acids
Biomacromolecules
Engineering in Life Sciences
Research Journal of Textile and Apparel